Tara's Tanz Trek

Last Week

2008-04-29T06:00:00.000-07:00

Hi Everyone,
So these are my last days in Mwanza and as a going away present, some mosquitoes decided to give me another dose of malaria. Eventhough the test results say I have 2 'rings' of malaria, I think my first bout was worse. But again, it is the medication that really brings you down. Luckily my work at the lab is pretty much complete. Tomorrow I will run my final assays and pack up my things on Thursday.
Wednesday evening we are hosting all of the Yogurt Mama's over to our apartment for a dinner. The main reason we have invited them all over is to surprise them with donations of money that Cynthia Medeiros (a former WHE intern) personally raised for them. Stephanie has taken on the task of food preparation for the event so hopefully the Mama's will have a fun evening.
Last week we met with Dr. Changalucha (of NIMR) and Dr. Butamanya (of Sekou Toure Hospital) to discuss the upcoming research project that Jaimie Hemsworth will be coordinating this summer. This project focuses on micronutrient fortified probitoic yogurt, and both men agreed that it was an important project and have offered assistance and responsibility on the study.
Ruben and I also gave seminars on Friday afternoon at NIMR regarding our work. I spoke about probiotics, the immune system, why I came to Mwanza and some preliminary results. Ruben gave a great talk on bacterial vaginosis, probiotics and the rationale for his study. We were happy to have several of the Yogurt Mama's also attend our seminar, along with the nurses from Sekou Toure. Afterwards, we went through our talks with a translator for the Swahili-only-speaking attendees. The Mama's we very enthusiastic about the presentations and requested copies of our slides in Swahili.
I have a lot of small tasks to complete before I leave Mwanza so this week will go by fast. I am looking forward to arriving home to Canada soon.
My next post will most likely be from Canada with some final pictures of my stay in Mwanza.
Despite the malaria, I have had a great time in Mwanza. Thanks goes out to everyone in Tanzania and Canada that made it possible for me to work and experience life here.
Tara

Only 2 Weeks Left in Mwanza

2008-04-21T05:56:00.001-07:00

Hi Everyone,

Sorry for not posting regularly but the internet connection here is such that it takes all of my internet time just to download my emails. Life here in Mwanza is good, I have been healthy since my malaria episode and am hoping to stay so until I leave. Last week Ruben came and helped me run all of the cytokine assays I had planned so we got a lot of work done. As of last Saturday, all but two of his volunteers have submitted their 10 week samples. So this week will be filled with performing the remaining tests on those samples that just came in. Friday we are hoping to give a presentation at NIMR on probiotics and the HIV-Probiotics Study, with some preliminary results.

This weekend we were invited over to Ruben's friend, Jountwha's, for dinner with his family. Below is a painting that Jountwha did. Take a close look and notice that the petals are actually Masai people. Steph and I visited the orphanage on Sunday morning and in the afternoon hiked up to Ngezi Rock, which has a terrific view. There we were visited by some local monkeys!

Hope everyone is doing well,
TK

African Time

2008-04-14T02:32:00.000-07:00

Hi Everyone,
Sorry I haven't posted anything in quite awhile. I was waiting to post because last week my good luck finally ran out and I got malaria. Don't panic, it really wasn't that bad for me at all. I was sleepy for a couple days, and then got a high fever in the night, so I went to the clinic in the morning. They diagnosed me with malaria but said there was only 1 MPS (malaria parasite seen in the blood) so that is the lowest possible degree of malaria. The doctor said that my Malarone prophylaxis should clear it up, but then she gave me a bag full of drugs. Luckily a friend of ours here, Beatrice, is a doctor trained in the USA and she was able to advise me on what these drugs were. I had been given several pain pills, a gastric proton-pump inhibitor, and a drink to make my urine more alkaline. Basically I was 'had', so I don't even know for sure if I ever did have malaria. Either way Beatrice advised me to take some anti-malaria drugs that you can buy at the pharmacy here and I finished my last dose today. The drugs unfortunately make you feel worse then the malaria for a few hours each day. But right now I feel completely fine, so no need for anyone to worry (Mom).

Yesterday a Mwanza local and friend took me to her home up in the hills of Mwanza to help with her English lessons. It was a really interesting trek and she has beautiful view of the city. Her two room home, houses herself, her son, and a little orphan girl. It is really incredible how much joy so many people here can have when living under hard conditions. The walk home down the hills in the dark was a little trecherous, which reminds me that the only other time I have walked up in the hills was during a downpour. So, before I leave Mwanza I would like to take a hike during a nice sunny day in the hills.

My weeks are full of running assays before I leave. I am happy to announce that I have pretty much all of the material I need now from the lab supply shops around town to finish what I brought.

Will post some pictures soon,
TK

Evidence of my blood donation after one evening of forgetting to wear bug spray... hmm

To Keep You Entertained

2008-04-04T07:18:00.000-07:00

So I have apparently been getting some complaints that my blog is not updated enough for some of my readers! Hence today's post... mainly some older random pictures, so hope you enjoy.

I really don't have much to update other than today my assay flopped for some unknown reason. I have been running the same ELISA for days in a row and today it just suddenly completely didn't work.

Wednesday evening we hosted Mama Karoko and Mama Flora to the WHE apartment to enjoy dinner with us. Ruben cooked a Dutch meal which was very much like shepard's pie. I was able to find some cooking chocolate at a store in town and made some chocolate covered fruit skewers which Ruben offered to our guests as goat's meat. Stephanie brought out her Italian and made the best garlic bread I've ever had.

I have heard from one of the laboratory suppliers that one of my items has arrived and the other two (important ones) should arrive by Tuesday. Fingers crossed, next week will yield better experiments.

Chui with her brand new litter of 11 pups

Having too much fun waiting for the centrifuge

Stephanie offering up her cooking skills at Mama Asha's house

One of our bunk mates on the train

One of the many beautiful landscapes of Tanzania

Sunset at Zanzibar

20 year old sea turtle

Tropical fruits at the Market

Only 4 Weeks Left

2008-04-01T03:27:00.001-07:00

Hello Blog Readers,

I have definitely had many interesting experiences here in Mwanza. The lab work in Mwanza is pretty much the same boring pipetting that it is in London, hehe, but completely different views from the lab windows! This weekend I was able to accompany Ruben to one of his clinic days at Sekou Toure Hospital. His volunteers start showing up at 8 am for follow-up visits with Ruben and two Nurses, Mama Karoko and Mama Flora. Samples are given, questionnaires filled out, physicals done, and probiotics given out. Beyond that, these HIV infected women share stories of their lives, and the nurses often do a lot of 'social work' on top of the study requirements.

One young volunteer that has been part of the study for 20 weeks came into the office wearing a bright smile that matched her vibrant T-shirt, and in English asked me how I was doing. She welcomed me to Tanzania and Mwanza, as so many do. She also sparked a great idea when she requested pamphlets on probiotics to read. It was only moments later that it was revealed her husband had died over Easter Weekend. I couldn't understand more of the conversation but it was shocking to see how well she was doing considering her loss. It reminds me of a comment a doctor at Bugando Hospital shared with me. When this doctor asked her fellow colleagues whether the death of a particular patient could have been prevented, the response was "No! Everyone has to die someday".

Another volunteer had been severely underweight at the beginning of the study had gained 6 kilograms in 5 weeks. Everyone was pleased, but l was later regretful to find that her recent weight gain was less likely due to an immune system boost as it was due to the fact she was pregnant. Since most of Ruben's participants enrolled shortly after discovering they are HIV positive, many still look quite healthy and are in seemingly good spirits. Of course I did meet some women who are not so fortunate. There is quite the reliance on God here in Tanzania. 'God willing' enough money will be scrounged together to send my child to school, 'God willing' I will not die from AIDS today. In one way this kind of faith prevents proactive action however it may be quite essential to have this devotion in order to cope with the desolation around you.

One place where desolation is lacking is at the Forever Angels Orphanage. These children are taken care of wonderfully, from food to medicine to love they truly blessed. Because many of the children's parents cannot afford formula and the other requirements of an infant, they are brought to the orphanage to be given advantages until they reach two years or so when they are returned home. The parents are still welcomed to come and spend time with their children. Of course many more need adoption, and even if a family does want to adopt a child a very lengthy process is required. For any of you interested Chloe and Amy, who run the orphanage, accept volunteers for various lengths of stay from 2 to 3 months and onwards. There is a house for the volunteers to live in on the orphanage grounds. Most of the volunteers come from England so I think it would be great if Canada represented, see: http://www.foreverangels.org

I have been a little disappointed with trying to access some lab supplies but I shouldn't say I am surprised at all by this. I was first told I would be able pick up the material after 4 days and that has stretched to two weeks. I feel as though everything will eventually fall into place so I can complete all of my planned assays.

Until next time,
TK

Tatiana and her friend visiting the apartment after school (yogurt Mama's relatives)

Felician and his nephew
I met with them to give Felician some items Michelle had sent with me from Canada

The Yogurt Mamas and Family with Stephanie and Myself

Mama Flora, Ruben, Myself, and Mama Karoko at Sekou Toure Hospital on Clinic Day

Dr. Butamaya and Ruben

View from the lab window

Stephanie playing at Forever Angels

Me and Joseph (the smartest little boy I have every met)

The amazing before and after pictures at the orphanage

Snack time at the orphanage

3 Weeks Down

2008-03-25T01:50:00.001-07:00

I can't believe that I have already been in Tanzania for 21 days! I will be back in Canada before I know it… hopefully with some new friends and some great data ;)

I wanted to post some pictures of NIMR where I am working. Below are some pictures of the "New Lab" just beside the main NIMR building. It is a about a 15 minute walk from the apartment to the facility. Everyday some local women set up shop out back and you can buy a lunch of rice, beans, and fish with tomatoes and spinach for the equivalent of $1.50 CAD, as well for dessert you can buy a fruit plate for 30 cents.

Everything in the labs at NIMR is funded by individual projects so other than large equipment there is really no communal sharing of supplies. This means simple things like NaCl and gloves have to be purchased by each research group. However, I suppose this isn't so different from how things work at UWO.

Stephanie has taken me to the yogurt kitchen to meet several of the Mamas and see where the 'magic happens'. I have also gotten the chance to go to Forever Angels Orphange, and promise pictures soon of the sparkling angels.

This weekend we had Easter Lunch with Rugee, a Kivulini worker, and his family. I am very appreciative of the welcoming friends here in Mwanza. The social dynamic is very warm. We have frequent visitors dropping by to say hello and are often invited to the homes of others.

Hope everyone is well at home in Canada.

Mama Sabina, Mama Leah, Stephanie, Ruben, and Mama Hawa at the Yogurt Kitchen

Ruben doing the 'African Way'

Yogurt Kitchen

Mabatini

Zanzibar Door

The 'New Lab' at NIMR

Serology Lab

Bright Ideas

Back in Mwanza

2008-03-20T08:33:00.000-07:00

My safari adventure with Stephanie and Manuela took longer than expected because of transit time however we had a fabulous trip. A quick summary of our trip is as follows:

*Spent 49 hours on the train getting from Mwanza to Dar es Salaam (surprisingly not as awful as it sounds! – got to see beautiful landscapes)
*Went to the Selous Game Reserve by safari car (~6 hour drive) and stayed at “Hippo Camp” – duly named because of the tonnes of hippos residing in the Rufiji River the camp is on.
*Went on a boat safari and a game drive safari and saw lots of cool creatures.
*Spent 2 nights in Zanzibar at Kendwa Rocks Lodge and enjoyed Stone Town, the beaches and a special natural aquarium with sea turtles.
*Because of the bus being booked up had to spend an additional 2 nights in Dar, so we made due and spent the day at a waterpark!
*Took a ~28 hour bus trip from Dar to Mwanza which included about 4 hours of ‘off-roading’ which felt like the “Mind Eraser” at Canada’s Wonderland.
*Returned to Mwanza the morning of March 19th.

Since being back in Mwanza I have spent time at NIMR, locating containers, preparing reagents, and receiving training on laboratory equipment. Stephanie and I also enjoyed a welcome home dinner from Ruben at a new restaurant in town. I have walked for my first time alone in Mwanza and had a little adventure on the way. As I was walking I noticed that alone I did not attract as much attention as a foreigner as compared to when I am with other non-Africans. Just as I was pondering this however, I slipped and my sandal sunk into a mud stream among the grass along the side of the road. So I bent down and started searching but this was not an easy task. Within 2 minutes I had about 10 locals down in the dirt with me searching for my sandal! I couldn’t believe it. Finally a little boy found my mud soaked flip-flop and I thanked him and gave him 500 shillings. I had to laugh at myself for thinking for a second that I was walking unnoticed. ;)

Now with the Easter Holiday I am not sure if I will be able to come back to NIMR until Tuesday as it is closed for the long weekend – that also means no internet connection. So hope everyone enjoys their long Easter Weekend and thank you all for your emails and comments. I will save some more pictures to post next time!

TK

Plains of Tanzania

Mountains as seen from Train

Sunset at Hippo Camp

Manuela and Stephanie overlooking Rufiji River

Count the Hippos

Sunrise on Rufiji River

Giraffe at Selous

Baby Baboon having a ride! (For you Cierra)

Friend on the Train (For you Annelise)

Angry Chameleon

Beach at Stone Town on Zanzibar Island

Ninja and me hanging out!

Sights of Mwanza

2008-03-06T01:24:00.000-08:00

Hi Everyone,
Just a quick post to let you all know that I am enjoying my 3rd day in this beautiful city. I have been so lucky with the weather so far. We had a windy wet storm last night, but the sun is shining brightly today. Stephanie has planned a safari for her, Manuela, her friend, and me. We are leaving on Sunday and might not be back for a week. So I will not be able to be reached by email until I return. I will be turning my phone on at 7am for an hour or so each day in case of emergency, but I don't know how long my battery will last. I promise lots of pictures when I return!

I also wanted to tell you all that I have been to NIMR twice now and the facility is amazing. I am very excited to be working with very sincere people in such a place. Dr. Changalucha, Mr. Temu, Julius, Simon and others have all been very accomodating to my efforts, and have offered help for the future. I am also very excited that they have a plate washer so I don't have to manually wash all of my ELISA plates! - will save me lots of time.

TK

View from my window

Bismark Rock a landmark in Mwanza

Arrived in Mwanza!

2008-03-05T04:43:00.001-08:00

Hello Everyone,

To my incredible disbelief my trip to Mwanza went smooth as silk. When I first arrived only one of my luggage bags appeared in Mwanza, so I was certain that my second one (with all of my lab supplies) had been confiscated or gone missing. However, after only a few minutes of one of the airport staff helping me it was found and I was joyous. I was prepared for a rainy day in Mwanza, but the sun was shining down and I was grateful to sip the fresh air after breathing recycled air for so long on the planes.

Ruben and Stephanie (my new roommates) came to greet me with open arms, and they too were surprised that I had arrived on schedule with no problems to speak of. I quickly set up my phone (thanks Jaimie) at the airport and we took a picturesque cab ride home to the apartment. My new phone number here is +255 075 2112846 and I receive free incoming calls. Writing this now I still don't think it has hit me that I am in Africa to live here for the next two months. The views of the city from the cab ride were awesome, to me they were like scenes from a movies. The smooth rock clusters jetting out from the hills, the school children playing, the erratic traffic, the views of Lake Victoria, everything was so refreshing and exciting.

The rest of my day was filled up with a tasty lunch of pizza at a nearby restaurant, Kuleana, a tour through the market (where I was so impressed with Stephanie's handle on Swahili) and an attempt at unpacking. My unpacking didn't get too far as sleep started overpowering me so I called it an early night and went to bed (under my mosquito net Mom) at 7pm. I am up at 4am writing this, but I am going back to sleep to dream of the adventures to come.

Missing you already,

My family at the airport in Toronto

Morning in Dar es Salaam

My plane to Mwanza

Stephanie greeting me at Mwanza airport

Preparation Mode

2008-02-25T01:16:00.000-08:00

Hujambo! My first blog ever! Welcome everyone to my blogspot where I hope to be a blogging expert soon.

I am currently in preparation/panic mode for my upcoming travels to Mwanza, Tanzania. My flight to Tanzania has been booked! I leave Canada on Sunday March 2nd and arrive in Mwanza on Tuesday March 4th (ahhh, I will definitely be jet-lagged). My VISA application did not go as smoothly as I could have hoped but thanks to help from Mr. Temu at NIMR in Mwanza the Tanzanian High Commission in Ottawa mailed off my VISA and it arrived last week. The final major task to complete before leaving is shipping off all of my laboratory supplies ahead of my arrival. Fingers crossed everything will make it there (in useable condition) safely.

So what am I going to be doing in Mwanza? Well my major work there involves piggybacking on a clinical study involving 60 HIV infected women who also have Bacterial Vaginosis. This study is being run by Ruben Hummelen who has spent much time organizing the study over the past year. The women will be treated for their BV with standard antibiotic use, but then half of them will receive probiotic capsules while the other half will receive control placebo capsules for 6 months. The principle aim of the study is to determine the effect of combined treatment of BV with metronidazole and Lactobacillus GR-1 and RC-14, on HIV-1 shedding. My work will be done at NIMR and deal with serum samples from these women from day 0 and week 10.

Many of you know that my Master's work has focused on the effects of probiotics on seasonal allergies. You may be asking, what does Hay Fever have to do with HIV? Well, there have been several journal articles indicating that the same immunoglobulins (antibodies our bodies make that are specific for different antigens) that cause all the awful effects of allergies are present at increased levels in HIV infected people. As well, as those individuals progress towards AIDS those immunoglobulin (IgE) levels also increase. One researcher, Yechiel Becker has even proposed that AIDS itself is an allergy against part of the HIV particle.

So, I am going to be looking at total changes in IgE levels in the serum as well as another immunoglobulin, IgG. Plus, I will be looking at possible causes to the switch from producing IgG to IgE or vice versa. If I complete all of that, and still have serum samples left over, I hope to qualitatively access the differences between day 0 and week 10 levels of HIV-specific IgE.

Beyond being a lab rat, I hope to volunteer with Stephanie at the orphanage, Forever Angels, work on getting ethical clearance and permits for an upcoming clinical study run by Jaimie Hemsworth in Mwanza, and lend a hand to any other tasks to further the goals of Western Heads East. Oh, and see the beautiful country of Tanzania and meet all kinds of interesting people.

Thanks to everyone in London who has helped me prepare for this venture and thanks to all of my family and friends from all over who are so excited for me. I am so fortunate to have this opportunity, so thank you to my supervisor Gregor Reid for making it possible.

Keep checking back here, hopefully there will be some photos to share soon. Until then, asante sana and Kwa heri!